Tuesday, June 29

[Nikko]

Being another ancient capital, Nikko is bursting with the usual array of shrines and so on, all conveniently nestled amongst inaccessible and quite beautiful mountains. Water is everywhere, and thus the humidity hovers at near-liquid percentage, but we were mercifully blessed with cool weather.

I loved Nikko, but it takes hours to get there. Hours. On the way I chatted with a random Japanese guy, but on the way back I was sandwiched amongst some rather unpleasant old people who rushed towards the available seats in somewhat of a squeezed tube of toothpaste fashion. Thank goodness for portable CD players and my ability to sleep in train seats.

The best thing I saw in Nikko was an abyss lined with guardian statues (something to do with dead children and safe travels), the number of which is said to be constantly changing. Very eerie and very wonderful, and we scored ourselves a couple of Konnichiwas along the way, which always makes a refreshing change from Tokyo.

The temple or shrine or whatever complex we trawled through was attractively decorated but, to be honest (and not wanting to sound too awful), I am a bit over such things.

And I don't recommend buying coffee in Nikko.

This all sounds rather negative I know, but it was a nice destination. I don't know that I'd bother doing it again, however.

posted by pete at 00:31

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Sunday, June 6

[Go west]

Why I love Osaka and am mildly obsessed with the idea of living there:

Unlike Tokyo, Osaka has a focal point. When you are in the middle of the city, you feel like you are in the middle of a big city, as opposed to being in the middle of a smaller city in the middle of a thousand other cities. That doesn't really make sense but I'm going to leave it like that.

This focal point (and I am talking about Shinsaibashi... who knows what other wonders exist) has billions of wonderful clothing shops and cafes, particularly around Amerika Mura, a district which in theory I object to but in reality loved.

The people are either thoroughly outgoing or subtly aggressive – I'm not sure which – and I felt intimidated in a way that I never have in Tokyo, which was kind of invigorating. The endless staring still occurs, but it is tinged with humour and curiosity rather than xenophobia... and randoms on the street like to strike up conversation.

Rock. Yes, rock. Rock tshirts, rock music. Rockin' rockin'. Racks of vintage rock tees reprinted for the new millennium. Much less Louis Vuitton too, which can only be a good thing in this monogrammed world. Countless recycled clothing shops dot the narrow streets; I would have come away with a wonderful I ♥ NY tshirt, with the ♥ replaced with an adidas symbol, had it fitted me correctly.

And I loved the 3D nature of the city. There is the street level with a world beneath the ground and a world above. Osaka is much more like the Manga universe, but still no match for Hong Kong.

So, yeah, I am thinking about moving there, but I'll give it a few months and a bit more thought so it doesn't become a product of yet another flight of fancy.

We actually spent most of our time in Kyoto, where we were based in simply the most lovely guest house, which I would link to had they not published the most vile possible photograph of me and my travelling companion. I don't think I could ever really get sick of Kyoto, except for during the muggy height of summer perhaps, because there is just so much to see and experience. I visited only one temple this time, at which the crazy school children inundated us with pencils, workbooks and English questions, and instead went to other districts, such as Arashiyama (possibly misspelt) where loads of picturesque walking is well and truly possible.

The cafe outside Kyoto station really does make the most wonderful hot chocolates, let that be acknowledged, although the sugar made my head spin.

We went out for dinner and drinks with a Brit and an Eastern European (I forget the nationality, one of those obscure former Soviet states), walked endlessly, avoided the hordes of children and foreign tourists and tried to avoid doing the "actually I live in Tokyo" thing wherever possible.

Again I say that Kansai folk have no trouble understanding bad Japanese. I had a lovely conversation with a random lady on the bus; she was the instigator.

And I spent in the vicinity of AU$650 in three days which was nothing if not liberating, although I can theoretically ill-afford it right now, but how many times do we live? That's right, once. It's mainly because I refuse to take any lesser mode of transport than the Shinkansen.

Now I need to start planning my next holiday.

posted by pete at 19:06

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